Hard to Remove PM 2.0 x 3.0 Battery Hold Down Screws

Discussion:

(too old to reply)

Boris

2024-03-26 23:23:29 UTC

Laptop is my daughter's HP Spectre 13-ac000 x360 Convertible PC,
purchased in March, 2017. Some years ago (sorry, I don't know when) the
laptop was giving "extreme low battery" warnings, and eventually wouldn't
hold a charge, but it would boot up when using the charger. Finally, the
laptop wouldn't boot up even with the charger. My daughter then put the
thing in her closet and bought a new laptop. Yikes.

She brought this up to me today, and I said let me see it.

I plugged it in, and the orange charging light went on. An hour later,
the charging light turned white. Ok, guess it's charged, but it still
wouldn't boot. Nothing, not even a hint that anything's going on inside.

Per troubleshooting advice, I pulled the charger, and held the on/off
button for 30 seconds. Plugged the charger back in, but still wouldn't
boot up. Troubleshooting suggested that the battery may be the cause and
to remove battery and try again with just charger and battery removed.

So I got the manual:

http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c05357578.pdf

I got the back panel off (had to use a hairdryer to get the adhesive
attached plastic caps off under the rubber feet, where the last two panel
hold down screws were), but I can't get the PM 2.0 x 3.0 screws removed
to get the battery out. They are in there very, very tight. I have
tried very, very hard, with lots of pressure. I just can't budge the
screws here.

https://postimg.cc/bZ70k20R

I've always used jeweler's screwdrivers to do this type of work. Would a
computer technician screwdriver set make a difference? Are the points
shorter to get tightly into the short depth of these small screw heads?

TIA

Paul

2024-03-27 00:03:57 UTC

Permalink

Post by Boris
Laptop is my daughter's HP Spectre 13-ac000 x360 Convertible PC,
purchased in March, 2017. Some years ago (sorry, I don't know when) the
laptop was giving "extreme low battery" warnings, and eventually wouldn't
hold a charge, but it would boot up when using the charger. Finally, the
laptop wouldn't boot up even with the charger. My daughter then put the
thing in her closet and bought a new laptop. Yikes.
She brought this up to me today, and I said let me see it.
I plugged it in, and the orange charging light went on. An hour later,
the charging light turned white. Ok, guess it's charged, but it still
wouldn't boot. Nothing, not even a hint that anything's going on inside.
Per troubleshooting advice, I pulled the charger, and held the on/off
button for 30 seconds. Plugged the charger back in, but still wouldn't
boot up. Troubleshooting suggested that the battery may be the cause and
to remove battery and try again with just charger and battery removed.
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c05357578.pdf
I got the back panel off (had to use a hairdryer to get the adhesive
attached plastic caps off under the rubber feet, where the last two panel
hold down screws were), but I can't get the PM 2.0 x 3.0 screws removed
to get the battery out. They are in there very, very tight. I have
tried very, very hard, with lots of pressure. I just can't budge the
screws here.
https://postimg.cc/bZ70k20R
I've always used jeweler's screwdrivers to do this type of work. Would a
computer technician screwdriver set make a difference? Are the points
shorter to get tightly into the short depth of these small screw heads?
TIA

It doesn't seem to be pozidrive.

https://shop4fasteners.co.uk/blog/pozidriv-vs-phillips/

There's no warning here about those screws.

No warning about the screws here either. And this is
a home user doing it, and you can see he gives warnings
about things not going his way.

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/HP+Spectre++X360+13-4005dx+Battery+Replacement/124882

https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/TWIMIHHsWs5iHypv.full

I would go for my socket-tool and the sharper Philips
head that fits in it. As it can create more drive than
a jeweler one would

I have held a jeweler tool using Vice Grips, to get
more turning power, but then again, I did ruin one
Jeweler Philips by turning it to the point the
shaft broke free of the tool body :-)

They probably have not put Blue Loktite on it,
and using Red Loktite would be silly (Red is permanent).
More likely, it was torqued on with a power tool.

Be careful around that battery. It sounds like you
already know about the danger of puncturing it.

Paul

Boris

2024-03-27 03:52:35 UTC

Permalink

Post by Paul

Post by Boris
Laptop is my daughter's HP Spectre 13-ac000 x360 Convertible PC,
purchased in March, 2017. Some years ago (sorry, I don't know when)
the laptop was giving "extreme low battery" warnings, and eventually
wouldn't hold a charge, but it would boot up when using the charger.
Finally, the laptop wouldn't boot up even with the charger. My
daughter then put the thing in her closet and bought a new laptop.
Yikes.
She brought this up to me today, and I said let me see it.
I plugged it in, and the orange charging light went on. An hour
later, the charging light turned white. Ok, guess it's charged, but
it still wouldn't boot. Nothing, not even a hint that anything's
going on inside.
Per troubleshooting advice, I pulled the charger, and held the on/off
button for 30 seconds. Plugged the charger back in, but still
wouldn't boot up. Troubleshooting suggested that the battery may be
the cause and to remove battery and try again with just charger and
battery removed.
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c05357578.pdf
I got the back panel off (had to use a hairdryer to get the adhesive
attached plastic caps off under the rubber feet, where the last two
panel hold down screws were), but I can't get the PM 2.0 x 3.0 screws
removed to get the battery out. They are in there very, very tight.
I have tried very, very hard, with lots of pressure. I just can't
budge the screws here.
https://postimg.cc/bZ70k20R
I've always used jeweler's screwdrivers to do this type of work.
Would a computer technician screwdriver set make a difference? Are
the points shorter to get tightly into the short depth of these
small screw heads?
TIA

It doesn't seem to be pozidrive.
https://shop4fasteners.co.uk/blog/pozidriv-vs-phillips/

Never heard of pozidriv. Now I know, but you're right, these are not
pozidrive screws.

Post by Paul
There's no warning here about those screws.
http://youtu.be/Kw414-g-Yt8

Been there.

Post by Paul
No warning about the screws here either. And this is
a home user doing it, and you can see he gives warnings
about things not going his way.
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/HP+Spectre++X360+13-4005dx+Battery+Replace
ment/124882
https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/TWIMIHHsWs5iHypv.full
I would go for my socket-tool and the sharper Philips
head that fits in it. As it can create more drive than
a jeweler one would

I may have one around here, but may have to wait 'till I get home. Not
sure what I have here or there.

Post by Paul
I have held a jeweler tool using Vice Grips, to get
more turning power, but then again, I did ruin one
Jeweler Philips by turning it to the point the
shaft broke free of the tool body :-)

Wow. I did use a pair of pliers to turn the jeweler's screwdrive as I
push really hard on the rotating head of the screwdriver, but the
screwriver just 'cammed' out of the screw head. I couldn't apply enough
downward pressure to keep the Phillips point in the head.

Post by Paul
They probably have not put Blue Loktite on it,
and using Red Loktite would be silly (Red is permanent).
More likely, it was torqued on with a power tool.

Probably. There was no Loktite of any color oozing out of the threaded
hole.

Post by Paul
Be careful around that battery. It sounds like you
already know about the danger of puncturing it.

I noticed that the battery does look a bit puffy/swollen.

Thanks.

Post by Paul
Paul

VanguardLH

2024-03-27 02:39:39 UTC

Permalink

The heads look thick enough that maybe you could get the tip of the jaws
of a vise grip pliers (jaw locking pliers using a thumb screw, squeeze
to lock, and use a lever to unlock). You'll want a small one. Once the
vise grip is attached to a screw head, don't turn by hand. Instead
press down on the pliers to keep from popping off, and use a crescent
wrench to twist the pliers.

If you get the ratching screwdriver set that has replaceable bits, a
good set will have different styles of Phillips heads. You want a sharp
ended bit, not one that is ground flat to fill the empty low space
inside a larger screw. The important part is the tangs of the tip
engage the sides of the slots in the screw as much as possible for the
depth of the slot. Too small a tip won't well engage the sides of the
slot. You want well defined and sharp edges on the bits flanges. An
old screwdriver has probably been rounded off.

Besides using the right-sized bit, some have ridges aka ribs on the
flanges to better grip the screw when under pressure during twisting.

Loading Image...

https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2007/11/06/whats-the-difference-phillips-head-screwdriver-bits

VanguardLH

2024-03-27 03:50:57 UTC

Permalink

Post by VanguardLH

The heads look thick enough that maybe you could get the tip of the jaws
of a vise grip pliers (jaw locking pliers using a thumb screw, squeeze
to lock, and use a lever to unlock). You'll want a small one. Once the
vise grip is attached to a screw head, don't turn by hand. Instead
press down on the pliers to keep from popping off, and use a crescent
wrench to twist the pliers.
If you get the ratching screwdriver set that has replaceable bits, a
good set will have different styles of Phillips heads. You want a sharp
ended bit, not one that is ground flat to fill the empty low space
inside a larger screw. The important part is the tangs of the tip
engage the sides of the slots in the screw as much as possible for the
depth of the slot. Too small a tip won't well engage the sides of the
slot. You want well defined and sharp edges on the bits flanges. An
old screwdriver has probably been rounded off.
Besides using the right-sized bit, some have ridges aka ribs on the
flanges to better grip the screw when under pressure during twisting.
https://cdn.mscdirect.com/global/images/ProductImages/7515227-21.jpg
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2007/11/06/whats-the-difference-phillips-head-screwdriver-bits

After looking at your photo again, you sure that isn't a #2 Phillips
(PH2) sharp point screw? If PH2 is too big, try a PH1. There's even a
PHO tip.

https://images.app.goo.gl/TJcS1YmgE4D9QbnL8

PH2:
Loading Image...

PH1:
Loading Image...

PH0 and PH00: Hard to find alone. Get a precision screwdriver set.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-1-Precision-Slotted-and-Philips-Screwdriver-71281H/302735272
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver-Set-with-Cushion-Grip-Handles-RHSDP01/319240867

To get enough pressure to prevent the bit from popping out of the screw
which damages the bit tip and the screw slot, press down on the
screwdriver with one hand, and turn with the other.

It is possible if the screw were cinched in with a pneumatic assembly
line screwdriver so tight that you might break the head off the screw.
Then, um, you're screwed (smirk). The screw is probably so small that
you couldn't drill down the center of it to use a spiral extractor.
Instead, and if none of the above helps, you could try using a Speedout
extractor. The Speedout must have enough left of the head to grab it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ontel-Speed-Out-Speed-Out-Cobalt-Extractor-4-Piece-1000369/207096720#overlay
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAX-IMPACT-Carbon-Steel-Extractor-Set-3-Piece-DWAMIEXTRACT3/313982175

Another factor is if there is debris at the bottom of the screw slot.
This prevents the bit from fully seating into the slot. Use a sewing
needle to ensure there is no debris at the bottom. I have encountered
screws that were improperly formed in the press, and there is a blob of
metal at the bottom of the slot. A drill might remove it, but don't use
a wood drill bit. Cobalt drill bits are usually the best for drilling
into hardened steel. Titanium bits only have a coating. Cobalt bits
have cobalt throughout. A carbide tip, the toughest available but are
more brittle, can work faster, but just the tip is hardened. Carbide
bits last longer than cobalt for drilling, but you can more easily snap
a carbide bit.

Boris

2024-03-27 04:12:38 UTC

Permalink

Post by VanguardLH

Post by Boris
Laptop is my daughter's HP Spectre 13-ac000 x360 Convertible PC,
purchased in March, 2017. Some years ago (sorry, I don't know when)
the laptop was giving "extreme low battery" warnings, and eventually
wouldn't hold a charge, but it would boot up when using the charger.
Finally, the laptop wouldn't boot up even with the charger. My
daughter then put the thing in her closet and bought a new laptop.
Yikes.
She brought this up to me today, and I said let me see it.
I plugged it in, and the orange charging light went on. An hour
later, the charging light turned white. Ok, guess it's charged, but
it still wouldn't boot. Nothing, not even a hint that anything's
going on inside.
Per troubleshooting advice, I pulled the charger, and held the
on/off button for 30 seconds. Plugged the charger back in, but
still wouldn't boot up. Troubleshooting suggested that the battery
may be the cause and to remove battery and try again with just
charger and battery removed.
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c05357578.pdf
I got the back panel off (had to use a hairdryer to get the adhesive
attached plastic caps off under the rubber feet, where the last two
panel hold down screws were), but I can't get the PM 2.0 x 3.0
screws removed to get the battery out. They are in there very, very
tight. I have tried very, very hard, with lots of pressure. I just
can't budge the screws here.
https://postimg.cc/bZ70k20R
I've always used jeweler's screwdrivers to do this type of work.
Would a computer technician screwdriver set make a difference? Are
the points shorter to get tightly into the short depth of these
small screw heads?
TIA

The heads look thick enough that maybe you could get the tip of the
jaws of a vise grip pliers (jaw locking pliers using a thumb screw,
squeeze to lock, and use a lever to unlock). You'll want a small
one. Once the vise grip is attached to a screw head, don't turn by
hand. Instead press down on the pliers to keep from popping off, and
use a crescent wrench to twist the pliers.
If you get the ratching screwdriver set that has replaceable bits, a
good set will have different styles of Phillips heads. You want a
sharp ended bit, not one that is ground flat to fill the empty low
space inside a larger screw. The important part is the tangs of the
tip engage the sides of the slots in the screw as much as possible
for the depth of the slot. Too small a tip won't well engage the
sides of the slot. You want well defined and sharp edges on the bits
flanges. An old screwdriver has probably been rounded off.
Besides using the right-sized bit, some have ridges aka ribs on the
flanges to better grip the screw when under pressure during twisting.
https://cdn.mscdirect.com/global/images/ProductImages/7515227-21.jpg
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2007/11/06/whats-the-difference-phill
ips-head-screwdriver-bits

After looking at your photo again, you sure that isn't a #2 Phillips
(PH2) sharp point screw? If PH2 is too big, try a PH1. There's even
a PHO tip.

Well, the HP manual does call out PH2.0.

Post by VanguardLH
https://images.app.goo.gl/TJcS1YmgE4D9QbnL8
https://cdn.menardc.com/main/items/media/SURET001/ProductXLarge/2520623
https://cdn.menardc.com/main/items/media/SURET001/ProductXLarge/2520622
_nopack.jpg
PH0 and PH00: Hard to find alone. Get a precision screwdriver set.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-1-Precision-Slotted-and-Philips-
Screwdriver-71281H/302735272
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver-Set-wit
h-Cushion-Grip-Handles-RHSDP01/319240867

I will check both links.

Post by VanguardLH
To get enough pressure to prevent the bit from popping out of the
screw which damages the bit tip and the screw slot, press down on the
screwdriver with one hand, and turn with the other.

Understood. Did that with the jewelwer's screwdrivers, and a pair of
pliers, but no luck.

Post by VanguardLH
It is possible if the screw were cinched in with a pneumatic assembly
line screwdriver so tight that you might break the head off the screw.
Then, um, you're screwed (smirk). The screw is probably so small that
you couldn't drill down the center of it to use a spiral extractor.
Instead, and if none of the above helps, you could try using a
Speedout extractor. The Speedout must have enough left of the head to
grab it.

Yeah, I suspect that the screws were installed with a pneumatic gun.
Yep, if I break them, I'm 'screwed'. Been there when rebuilding auto
engines.

Post by VanguardLH
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ontel-Speed-Out-Speed-Out-Cobalt-Extractor-
4-Piece-1000369/207096720#overlay
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAX-IMPACT-Carbon-Steel-Extractor-Se
t-3-Piece-DWAMIEXTRACT3/313982175

Thanks.

Post by VanguardLH
Another factor is if there is debris at the bottom of the screw slot.
This prevents the bit from fully seating into the slot. Use a sewing
needle to ensure there is no debris at the bottom. I have encountered
screws that were improperly formed in the press, and there is a blob
of metal at the bottom of the slot. A drill might remove it, but
don't use a wood drill bit. Cobalt drill bits are usually the best
for drilling into hardened steel. Titanium bits only have a coating.
Cobalt bits have cobalt throughout. A carbide tip, the toughest
available but are more brittle, can work faster, but just the tip is
hardened. Carbide bits last longer than cobalt for drilling, but you
can more easily snap a carbide bit.

Boris

2024-03-27 03:59:27 UTC

Permalink

Post by VanguardLH

Post by Boris
Laptop is my daughter's HP Spectre 13-ac000 x360 Convertible PC,
purchased in March, 2017. Some years ago (sorry, I don't know when)
the laptop was giving "extreme low battery" warnings, and eventually
wouldn't hold a charge, but it would boot up when using the charger.
Finally, the laptop wouldn't boot up even with the charger. My
daughter then put the thing in her closet and bought a new laptop.
Yikes.
She brought this up to me today, and I said let me see it.
I plugged it in, and the orange charging light went on. An hour
later, the charging light turned white. Ok, guess it's charged, but
it still wouldn't boot. Nothing, not even a hint that anything's
going on inside.
Per troubleshooting advice, I pulled the charger, and held the on/off
button for 30 seconds. Plugged the charger back in, but still
wouldn't boot up. Troubleshooting suggested that the battery may be
the cause and to remove battery and try again with just charger and
battery removed.
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c05357578.pdf
I got the back panel off (had to use a hairdryer to get the adhesive
attached plastic caps off under the rubber feet, where the last two
panel hold down screws were), but I can't get the PM 2.0 x 3.0 screws
removed to get the battery out. They are in there very, very tight.
I have tried very, very hard, with lots of pressure. I just can't
budge the screws here.
https://postimg.cc/bZ70k20R
I've always used jeweler's screwdrivers to do this type of work.
Would a computer technician screwdriver set make a difference? Are
the points shorter to get tightly into the short depth of these
small screw heads?
TIA

Completely understand what you are saying, and I will try. I do have the
mini-vice grips (one of my favorite tools) at home (not here). I may
just go to the local hardware store where I'm at now and get a pair and
try.

Post by VanguardLH
If you get the ratching screwdriver set that has replaceable bits, a
good set will have different styles of Phillips heads.

Have one here, and will see if it has small enough bits.

You want a

Post by VanguardLH
sharp ended bit, not one that is ground flat to fill the empty low
space inside a larger screw. The important part is the tangs of the
tip engage the sides of the slots in the screw as much as possible for
the depth of the slot.

Yep.

Too small a tip won't well engage the sides of

Post by VanguardLH
the slot. You want well defined and sharp edges on the bits flanges.
An old screwdriver has probably been rounded off.
Besides using the right-sized bit, some have ridges aka ribs on the
flanges to better grip the screw when under pressure during twisting.
https://cdn.mscdirect.com/global/images/ProductImages/7515227-21.jpg
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2007/11/06/whats-the-difference-philli
ps-head-screwdriver-bits

I see.

Thanks much for the reply.

wasbit

2024-03-27 10:10:35 UTC

Permalink

They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws & probably put in
with thread sealer.
Use an appropriate sized (No 1 or No 2) Phillips screwdriver or even an
angled screwdriver & bit. One the thread seal is broken the screws will
undo easily.

--
Regards
wasbit

Boris

2024-03-27 16:52:55 UTC

Permalink

Post by wasbit

Post by Boris
Laptop is my daughter's HP Spectre 13-ac000 x360 Convertible PC,
purchased in March, 2017. Some years ago (sorry, I don't know when)
the laptop was giving "extreme low battery" warnings, and eventually
wouldn't hold a charge, but it would boot up when using the charger.
Finally, the laptop wouldn't boot up even with the charger. My
daughter then put the thing in her closet and bought a new laptop.
Yikes.
She brought this up to me today, and I said let me see it.
I plugged it in, and the orange charging light went on. An hour
later, the charging light turned white. Ok, guess it's charged, but
it still wouldn't boot. Nothing, not even a hint that anything's
going on inside.
Per troubleshooting advice, I pulled the charger, and held the on/off
button for 30 seconds. Plugged the charger back in, but still
wouldn't boot up. Troubleshooting suggested that the battery may be
the cause and to remove battery and try again with just charger and
battery removed.
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c05357578.pdf
I got the back panel off (had to use a hairdryer to get the adhesive
attached plastic caps off under the rubber feet, where the last two
panel hold down screws were), but I can't get the PM 2.0 x 3.0 screws
removed to get the battery out. They are in there very, very tight.
I have tried very, very hard, with lots of pressure. I just can't
budge the screws here.
https://postimg.cc/bZ70k20R
I've always used jeweler's screwdrivers to do this type of work.
Would a computer technician screwdriver set make a difference? Are
the points shorter to get tightly into the short depth of these
small screw heads?
TIA

They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws & probably put in
with thread sealer.
Use an appropriate sized (No 1 or No 2) Phillips screwdriver or even
an angled screwdriver & bit. One the thread seal is broken the screws
will undo easily.

So a JIS screwdriver would fit the head of the screw better. As I
originally mentioned, my Phillips screwdriver didn't seem to go to the
bottom of the screw head slot. There just seemed to be a slight mis-
match between screwdriver point and screw slot. Learned something new.

https://postimg.cc/9DbYS7f6

Boris

2024-03-28 04:10:51 UTC

Permalink

Post by wasbit

Post by Boris
Laptop is my daughter's HP Spectre 13-ac000 x360 Convertible PC,
purchased in March, 2017. Some years ago (sorry, I don't know when)
the laptop was giving "extreme low battery" warnings, and eventually
wouldn't hold a charge, but it would boot up when using the charger.
Finally, the laptop wouldn't boot up even with the charger. My
daughter then put the thing in her closet and bought a new laptop.
Yikes.
She brought this up to me today, and I said let me see it.
I plugged it in, and the orange charging light went on. An hour
later, the charging light turned white. Ok, guess it's charged, but
it still wouldn't boot. Nothing, not even a hint that anything's
going on inside.
Per troubleshooting advice, I pulled the charger, and held the on/off
button for 30 seconds. Plugged the charger back in, but still
wouldn't boot up. Troubleshooting suggested that the battery may be
the cause and to remove battery and try again with just charger and
battery removed.
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c05357578.pdf
I got the back panel off (had to use a hairdryer to get the adhesive
attached plastic caps off under the rubber feet, where the last two
panel hold down screws were), but I can't get the PM 2.0 x 3.0 screws
removed to get the battery out. They are in there very, very tight.
I have tried very, very hard, with lots of pressure. I just can't
budge the screws here.
https://postimg.cc/bZ70k20R
I've always used jeweler's screwdrivers to do this type of work.
Would a computer technician screwdriver set make a difference? Are
the points shorter to get tightly into the short depth of these
small screw heads?
TIA

They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws & probably put in
with thread sealer.
Use an appropriate sized (No 1 or No 2) Phillips screwdriver or even
an angled screwdriver & bit. One the thread seal is broken the screws
will undo easily.

I was unable to get the screws out with the tools I have on hand, so I
went to a local computer repair shop in the area, "Nerdy Dave's". Dave
had the proper tools, and removed the screws with ease.

All screws did have a blue sealant on them.

I was now able to try and boot the machine without the battery, using
only the charger, which was my goal. Didn't boot up.

The HP battery has a sticker on it with "replace with HP spare 859356-
855". HP.com has discontinued the battery, and authorized resellers only
sell compatible batteries at $129. No thanks, not for a 'compatible'
battery. I'm not a fan of eBay, but I found an OEM's new, unopened HP
battery on eBay for $34. Wonder how old it is. It should arrive in
about a week. I'll report back then.

If the machine still won't boot up with a replacement battery, I'll get
the data off the SSD.

Thanks to all.

Paul

2024-03-28 13:44:15 UTC

Permalink

Post by Boris
I was unable to get the screws out with the tools I have on hand, so I
went to a local computer repair shop in the area, "Nerdy Dave's". Dave
had the proper tools, and removed the screws with ease.
All screws did have a blue sealant on them.
I was now able to try and boot the machine without the battery, using
only the charger, which was my goal. Didn't boot up.
The HP battery has a sticker on it with "replace with HP spare 859356-
855". HP.com has discontinued the battery, and authorized resellers only
sell compatible batteries at $129. No thanks, not for a 'compatible'
battery. I'm not a fan of eBay, but I found an OEM's new, unopened HP
battery on eBay for $34. Wonder how old it is. It should arrive in
about a week. I'll report back then.
If the machine still won't boot up with a replacement battery, I'll get
the data off the SSD.
Thanks to all.

Batteries have to be fresh. Or they may not be a good/safe value.

Paul

Boris

2024-04-03 22:49:02 UTC

Permalink

Post by Boris

Post by wasbit

Post by Boris
Laptop is my daughter's HP Spectre 13-ac000 x360 Convertible PC,
purchased in March, 2017. Some years ago (sorry, I don't know when)
the laptop was giving "extreme low battery" warnings, and eventually
wouldn't hold a charge, but it would boot up when using the charger.
Finally, the laptop wouldn't boot up even with the charger. My
daughter then put the thing in her closet and bought a new laptop.
Yikes.
She brought this up to me today, and I said let me see it.
I plugged it in, and the orange charging light went on. An hour
later, the charging light turned white. Ok, guess it's charged, but
it still wouldn't boot. Nothing, not even a hint that anything's
going on inside.
Per troubleshooting advice, I pulled the charger, and held the on/off
button for 30 seconds. Plugged the charger back in, but still
wouldn't boot up. Troubleshooting suggested that the battery may be
the cause and to remove battery and try again with just charger and
battery removed.
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c05357578.pdf
I got the back panel off (had to use a hairdryer to get the adhesive
attached plastic caps off under the rubber feet, where the last two
panel hold down screws were), but I can't get the PM 2.0 x 3.0 screws
removed to get the battery out. They are in there very, very tight.
I have tried very, very hard, with lots of pressure. I just can't
budge the screws here.
https://postimg.cc/bZ70k20R
I've always used jeweler's screwdrivers to do this type of work.
Would a computer technician screwdriver set make a difference? Are
the points shorter to get tightly into the short depth of these
small screw heads?
TIA

They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws & probably put in
with thread sealer.
Use an appropriate sized (No 1 or No 2) Phillips screwdriver or even
an angled screwdriver & bit. One the thread seal is broken the screws
will undo easily.

I was unable to get the screws out with the tools I have on hand, so I
went to a local computer repair shop in the area, "Nerdy Dave's". Dave
had the proper tools, and removed the screws with ease.
All screws did have a blue sealant on them.
I was now able to try and boot the machine without the battery, using
only the charger, which was my goal. Didn't boot up.
The HP battery has a sticker on it with "replace with HP spare 859356-
855". HP.com has discontinued the battery, and authorized resellers only
sell compatible batteries at $129. No thanks, not for a 'compatible'
battery. I'm not a fan of eBay, but I found an OEM's new, unopened HP
battery on eBay for $34. Wonder how old it is. It should arrive in
about a week. I'll report back then.
If the machine still won't boot up with a replacement battery, I'll get
the data off the SSD.
Thanks to all.

The replacement battery arrived a few days ago. This is it:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/364525829384

The markings on the replacement battery are nearly identical to those on
the original battery. I've attached a photo of both, side by side, for
comparison. Note that the old battery has a mfg. date of March 2017, and
the new battery has a mfg. date of August 2023. The old battery has a TIS
(?) number, and two, square silver stickers on each bottom side. The new
battery has none of these three items.

The new battery was difficult to connect because the cable was 1/8" longer
than the old battery's cable, and it also had stiff shrink tubing on part
of the cable. I considered cutting the shrink tubing off, but with some
forceful contortionist bending, I was able to compactly stuff the cable
such that the battery fit, and secure the bottom panel, flush.

https://postimg.cc/gallery/BjNMSrQ

Once the new battery was charged up, the laptop booted up just fine. I
disconnected the charger, checked all Windows settings, installed waiting
updates, and then surfed for a few hours to see how the battery held up
under use. After one hour, battery was down to 90%, and after two hours,
battery was down to 81%. I left it alone, and checked on the battery at 9
p.m., it was at 77%. The laptop put itself to sleep, and I woke it up
about 15 hours later. Battery was at 70%. I'll give it back to my
daughter and we'll see how it performs under her regular use.

VanguardLH

2024-04-04 03:47:19 UTC

Permalink

Post by Boris
Once the new battery was charged up, the laptop booted up just fine. I
disconnected the charger, checked all Windows settings, installed waiting
updates, and then surfed for a few hours to see how the battery held up
under use. After one hour, battery was down to 90%, and after two hours,
battery was down to 81%. I left it alone, and checked on the battery at 9
p.m., it was at 77%. The laptop put itself to sleep, and I woke it up
about 15 hours later. Battery was at 70%. I'll give it back to my
daughter and we'll see how it performs under her regular use.

Hint to her that you want something more than a tie on Father's Day.
Also, remind her to cycle the battery if she's going to leave the laptop
stowed in a closet for months. Add a reminder to her calendar.

Boris

2024-04-04 03:59:21 UTC

Permalink

Post by VanguardLH

She's a great daughter (one of four adult kids) and always does more than I
wish she would for Mom and Dad on all holidays.

She was so excited to get her laptop back. (She was using a Microsoft
Surface, and just didn't like it.) She will now use this HP laptop as her
daily driver.

Many thanks.